Fashion might seem to be daunting at first but it opens up a world of endless possibilities if you dress for it!
And mind you, it is not plain vanity but a force that not only makes one gain a deeper understanding of themselves, but also express their true inner self out in the world. With that sentiment, I set out to believe that fashion in all its forms promotes diversity and inclusivity. The people who society has deemed to be misfits for years, find themselves belonging in the world of fashion - irregardless of their sexuality or gender, and popular fashion cities recount that narrative as people step out in flamboyant looks which speak to them, and us fashion connoisseurs.
Gone are the days when the fashion panorama was defined to be either masculine or feminine, our world has now set out to question and shamelessly undress gender norms and rightfully so.
The industry has seen an unapologetic movement since the days of Coco Chanel in a boyish haircut, and Yves Saint Laurent opening his first collection with bold trouser suits for women. In this sense, fashion without gender has always been prevalent, it’s just the expanding world of digitisation that is garnering more attention towards it. While it remains a constant struggle to separate present-day leading brands’ approach towards LGBTQ+ inclusivity as simply a marketing gimmick from a truly inclusive philosophy, it is always interesting to see more and more become a part of the movement.
Thom Browne mentioning how he loves the idea of men in dresses after a spectacular FW 2019 show that touched the intimate exploration of sexuality pushes into his rousing aim of highlighting masculinity and femininity by straying away from the preconceived notions. This rings a bell and sets the tone for us to explore more gender-fluid collections that Paris has witnessed in the recent years, and how that influences the Parisian youth. Over at Y/Project, Glenn Martens has been as experimental as ever with predatory femininity, right from voluptuous tailored coats to crotchless trousers. In a surprising turn of events, Giambattista Valli was also been seen rolling out mannish tailored suits which balanced right at par with his love for femininity on his 2020 Fall/Winter runway alongside his usual girly flamboyance of ruffles and flowers. On the other hand, Givenchy made a great attempt at striking the balance and touching the happy spot between masculinity and femininity with boxy, broad-shouldered pantsuits, seamlessly transitioning into fluid silk dresses around the same time. More recently, the Paris fashion scene has witnessed the revival of pant suits since the days of Phoebe Philo taking it up a notch at Chloé and Céline. The Row kicked off with box-cut blazers and wide-legged pants as the designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen dive into the androgynous aesthetic. Meanwhile, at Vivienne Westwood a more homoerotic approach was seen that taps into the 80’s grunge vibe. These leading labels making big strides to support and uplift the LGBTQ+ movement also has a trickle down effect on ready-to-wear brands which have actively started introducing dedicated collections in honour of the Pride movement.
The constant chase to find ones own ‘identity’ amidst the socio-political upheavals surrounding the younger generations has enabled the possibility to imagine fashion beyond the constraints of presumed masculinity and femininity. This opens doors for the younger consumer to experiment and one can witness that first-hand in one of the more youthful and fashion-forward neighbourhoods of Paris, like Les Marais or Chatelet Les Halles, or the districts surrounding Opéra Garnier. It is just as interesting to see nonchalant men sporting elaborate jewellery with impeccable outfits as they turn heads in the streets, as it is interesting to see women in androgynous suits and boxy fits. When asked about how he carries himself so well, the impressively dressed Andy in a houndstooth trench coat with huge pearl studs said, “It doesn’t matter what others think honestly, I dress according to my mood on a particular day and that probably translates into me carrying myself well.” That sentiment stuck with my fashion identity as well, because for me as well, what matters is how I am feeling and how I want to express myself, as opposed to how others might perceive me.
But these little moments of revelations have strong undertones of us opening doors into the world of gender-neutral fashion, and it continues to remain an enigma as to how we explore and develop our identities further - all the while that fashion continues to rewrite fashion ideologies and definition of traditional menswear and womenswear.
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