Are headlines like “Shein is the most popular brand in the world” normalising the ultra-fast fashion brand’s bad behaviour? Media coverage of the brand's new-found popularity status may be dangerous for sustainability progress.
By Sarah Deeb, January 2023
As the most popular girl in school is often not the nicest, the same can be said for Shein, the fast-fashion giant recently "crowned" the most popular brand of 2022. The title comes after a report published by money.co.uk found that Shein was the most googled brand in 113 countries, following Zara in 26 countries. Yet the brand did not even feature in 2021.
Like Regina George, Shein seems attractive on the surface, but its race to Prom Queen status has made collateral damage to its labourers, the environment, and the fashion industry at large. While Shein was indeed the most searched-for brand of 2022 , the media's badging of this popularity could be doing more harm than good.
The cost of living crisis has made affordable fashion more appealing than ever, and Shein has taken advantage of this trend and has left no prisoners. While $3 garments may be the sole option for those in financial need, it's 57% year-on-year revenue growth is definitely not being driven by functional purchases. Trend and deal-obsessed fashionistas are fuelling the fast-fashion giant. But the new cheerleader on the block may be the media, who did not hold back when declaring Shein as the "it brand" in their coverage headlines.
It’s hard to believe that just two months earlier, the media was in a frenzy about a Channel 4 exposé that uncovered the truth about the divisive brand's unethical production practices. It uncovered that employees were earning €20 per 18-hour shift, working 75 hours per week, and only being granted three days off per month. The overwhelming media coverage was a stride of progress for the industry, which has been desperate to create awareness about the dangers of un-transparent and unethical practices. But just as Regina George's minions put themselves first in the end, so has the media, who, at breakneck speed, published click-bait headlines about the popularity report.
As consumers, we need to be aware of the effect of badging. To the average person who is oblivious to Shein's impact, hearing that it is “the most popular brand” may influence their perception of the brand, and risks skewing it towards aspirational. It is understandable that Shein may initially gain popularity due to its affordability, but the thought of this popularity being confused with normality is frightening. For this reason, the media had a great responsibility in its choice of language when breaking the news.
“The problem is that perception today is shaped by click-bait headlines… it's no longer by detail or truth. Take Prince Harry’s new memoir: the world is already split into two die-hard camps over it from headlines alone! Who even needs to read the book?” Says Paul Warner, founder of the pan-African advertising agency MetropolitanRepublic.
For example, Hypebeast and Dazed have a reputation for supporting small brands. Dazed reported on the news with a caption that began with "Depressing" and rightfully called Shein a "controversial brand" in it's subtext. While Thred and Glossy opted for shock-inducing headlines and only discussed the brand's sins within their article text (which may not even be read).
Although the latest chatter is in relation to the brand’s desperate attempts at greenwashing, boycotting must remain the priority.
Next time you need something new for Pink Wednesday, shop secondhand or invest in higher quality, ethically-produced pieces. But above all, being a conscious consumer relies on our consumption of responsible media, which encourages us to have a conscience in the first place - rather than that which turns us into fast-fashion cheerleaders.
My bet is that Shein is heading for a greenwashed glow-up - and the media will be waiting in the wings to lap it up. So if there is one New Year's resolution you stick to in 2023, it's to remain unwavering in your stance against fast fashion. Don’t be tempted to trade in your values just for a seat at the "popular" girl's table.
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