Now that the New York Fashion Week 2019 is in full swing, we’re taking a breath to evaluate what has happened over the Men’s Fall Collections showcase days.
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK MEN’S FALL 2019 SHOWS
New York Fashion Week may have had its’ ups and down over the recent years. Regardless, a number of new talents who are starting their labels, decide to participate and present their work for the first time on the big platform.
“Shows are over so fast and I wanted to do something more lasting and also inspire the next generation of thinkers,” Christopher Bevans, a creative mind behind Dyne, told WWD. From established labelsto new generation of thinkers and creators, anumber of labels seemed to share the idea and presented their work in the format of installation.
Designers took us on a mountain-climbing expedition, back to high-school, to the Midwest… Amongst adventurous and experimental concepts there was still a place for men who are not quite ready to risk it all and prefer to keep it minimal and sleek – versatility was one of the outstanding features of the showcase.
From androgynous styles and unconventional silhouettes to functional pieces influenced by athletics (which don’t seem to leave the catwalk any time soon), we report on some of the most exciting directions that were set and the forthcoming fashion trends that were unveiled in New York last week.
SPORT AND FUN
New York is a city where gyms are as plentiful as food trucks, so it was no surprise that sportswear came heavily represented in the collections.Already a trend among the street style crowd, the neon athleisure is still going strong making the rounds among show looks. Neon goes in any shape or form – pop of colour to give a contrast to a modest look, head-to-toe, mix with funky patterns… Go bold or go home!
Robert Geller applied his romantic DNA to a performance-driven line-up which included a new collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s main collection concentrated around layered wool garments with some innovative dying techniques as seen in oversize wool coats, blazers and jackets all with nylon 3-D utility pockets. N. Hollywood offered up a wearable collection of brightly colored options. The use of vibrant colours on oversized made the proportions feel more controlled and realistic. Dyne presented a collection of athletically fused sportswear and signature high-tech fabrics juxtaposed against a cluster of old-time electronics.
BEAUTIFUL BOY
Fashion has been toying with gender norms for a long time now and designers don’t seem to get any less inspired by breaking the rules of the traditional social construction, reimagining a masculine image over and over again.
Pierre Davis of No Sesso put models in pleated miniskirts paired with shirts with voluminous sleeves, corsets incorporating strips of snakeskin and leather, floppy bucket hats and an attachment to a classic white shirt. Cargo shorts and compression tops, low-cut silhouettes, wide-leg khaki pants paired with lace tops, garment cuts revealing body partscome as no surprise from Neil Grotzinger, the designer behind Nihl, who is known for “queerifying” things.
Inspired by the Ballet Russes company from the early 20th century, Palomo Spain presented a collection where maxidresses with poet sleeves, silk printed pajamas and a head-turning velvet cape with a feathered hood were seen.
COMING OUT CLEAN
The runways made a considerable push for nineties minimalism. Theory has been doing it all along with textured wool top coat over a sleek nylon blazer and high-neck sweater where the use of different fabrics and finishes helped create depth and interest.Viktor Li presented a sophisticated traveler’s wardrobe, with classic pieces including a taupe shearling jacket worn with soft pink cashmere sweatpants. Neutral tones, black suits and sophisticated layering dominated David Hart and Sandae School’s presentations.
EAST END BOYS WITH A STREET EDGE
Fashion is an elective school uniform for grown-ups, according to a number of designers displayed at the NYFW Men’s. Styling that pushes an Eighties prep school vibe satisfies the nostalgic feeling and gives an outstanding stylish look. Ryohei Kawanishi of Landlord looked to references ranging from grade school to graduate school in attempt to subvert academic uniforms. Since prep is trending in men’s wear, Kawanishi could have easily presented a collection that feels too familiar, but he managed to fully embrace the references without losing Landlord’s design ethos. The Boy Scouts, collecting hobby, childhood at Williams College… These were just some of the reference points for Bode, showcasing oversize cardigans and corduroy pieces with college doodles on some jackets and pants.
MONO STATEMENT
Head-to-toe colours in a single shade is as efficient approach, when it comes to getting dressed to handle the fall season and layering necessity.
One of the most interesting additions to this week’s schedule, Wan Hang, showcased a collection heavy on synthetic leather outerwear. Leather jacket reinvented in topcoats and jumpsuits helped create innovative, yet sleek and modest look.A red shearling topcoat with matching rain boots and an oversize fisherman’s hat, shown throughout the collection, were highlights and among the most directional looks. Robert Galler’s moon-pattern print used all over in silky shirts and trousers was part of his fictitious mountainous climb to the moon. No Sesso’s experimental approach to proportions reimagining masculine body features in a new intriguing perspective, thanks to dark monochrome colour palette. More elegant and playful options were noticed in bordo and seaweed suits by Robert Geller and Krammer & Stoudt.
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK MEN’S FALL 2019 STREET STYLE
Menswear's most influential professionals landed in New York last week to see the closing act of the Fall 2019 shows, noticeably small, but successful in providing some particularly good street style.
The streets celebrated the American menswear by welcoming show-goers dressed in plenty of colours, loud prints, statements outerwear, ‘pyjama’ trousers and blazers. While there were plenty of outstanding sneakers, which fashion has been all about as of late, other more sophisticated options emerged in the footwear radar, thanks tothe revival of prep in response to all the streetwear and athleisure.
Get your style inspo with our round-up of the main trends from the streets of the Big Apple.
BRIGHT SIGHT
Traveling between the shows in February is not as glamourous as it might sound… To handle the snow, rain and sometimes freeze, fashionistas protected themselves from the cold weather and bad mood with quirky, winter-ready details, like neon-hued beanies, eye-caching turtle necks and bright statement puffer jackets amongst other options. Some showcased a well-balanced blend of sportswear and tailoring, others decided to stick to the full-on athletic movement.
NEW YORK STATE OF COAT
Since coats are pretty much the wardrobe must during a fashion week this month, the streets were packed with all sorts of statement outerwear to not only fill the street-style photographer’s content quota, but match anyone’s taste and aesthetics. The most popular choices were patterned coats, colorful faux fur and all-over prints.
CHECK, MATE
Plaid seemed to conquer the streets of the Big Apple and serve as a uniform for a vast majority of show goers. There is no surprise if we see more of the vibrant checks and preppy patterned shirts, trousers and blazers for the rest the Fashion Week. One way to follow into this polished aesthetic is by wearing plaid in all different forms, like coats, tailored pants or mixed-and-matched into one whole outfit.
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