Why this cliché is being laid to rest
Paris is a small town. It’s entirely encapsulated by a ring road of 22 miles. Although geographically tiny, the cultural impact it has on the world and fashion is mighty.
With its expansive Haussmannien boulevards and architecture, the city feels frozen in time. Indeed, I have observed living in Paris on and off since 2017 that the mentality here and across France is certainly status quo above all else. No sudden changes are to be made before going through the gut-wrenching gauntlet of bureaucracy and protest. Even Paris’s most iconic monument, the Eiffel Tower, was despised when first built, as the visionary engineering represented something too modern and not suited to the city. Guy de Maupassant is said to have eaten lunch there every day in order to be in the only place in Paris where the Iron Lady wasn’t visible. So in a city that truly appreciates Things the Way They Are™, it’s no wonder that Parisian style is synonymous with classic pieces and timelessness.
Parisians leisurely enjoying their favorite pastime
Who is she and what does she want from me?
For the unindoctrinated, the Parisian Girl wears white button downs, Agnès B. cardigans, vintage jeans, heritage print blazers, neutral tones, red lips, etc. She makes the dubious claim that modesty is peak sexiness. With clear, recognizable codes, connotations of western affluence, and easy-to-combine staple pieces, the Parisian look is extremely marketable on a global scale.
Gabrielle Caunesil Jeanne Damas
There are infinite blogs, articles, and YouTube channels (often originating from outside the Hexagon) dedicated to the Parisian Girl and to prescribing the pieces every girl should have in her collection, with enumerated tips and tricks to get the look. Take for example Who What Wear’s article “The 2021 French Wardrobe: 7 Items Chic Women in Paris Will Wear” which features items from Zara to Stella McCartney. The Instagram account Parisian Vibe, which posts daily outfit inspiration à la française, has amassed over 780k followers at the time of writing.
The SMCP group, whose brands include Sandro, Maje, Claudie Pierlot, and Fursac, is a great example of a company that capitalizes off the so-called Parisian look. These brands follow the codes to a tee with generally evergreen, chic pieces. The corporation, that defines itself as “affordable luxury,” see it as their mission to spread the Parisian gospel around the world. In 2020 they did $873 million in sales, only 35% of which were attributed to France, while EMEA and APAC countries each contributed 27%, and the Americas 11%.
While the Parisian Girl definitely has her virtues, we need to acknowledge the Arc de Triomphe in the room—diversity. Inherent in the codes of this aesthetic are thin bodies and European features. In the aforementioned Instagram account, Parisian Vibe, you can scroll for miles before seeing a person of color; you’ll scroll forever and still not find a plus-sized body.
At this point, the discourse on Parisian clichés being problematic is vast and by no means novel.
The lack of inclusivity in the style is merely one flaw. In fact, I am predicting a seismic shift in Parisian Girl supremacy.
A New Guard
In November 2021, Vogue Paris, under the stewardship of newly appointed editor-in-chief Eugénie Trochu, became Vogue France. This is Trochu’s attempt to overhaul the staid publication, saying the new iteration “explores and redefines the cultural richness of France, advocates for both individuality and community and the power of diversity and inclusivity.” This is certainly in line with some societal megatrends happening now.
One such megatrend is the interest in non-western culture and media, particularly from Korea. The 2019 Korean thriller, Parasite, with its commentary on class structure, won the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival and the Oscar for Best Picture (the only non-English film to ever do so). Then there is Squid Game, a 2021 Korean series that needs no introduction as it immediately became the most viewed show on Netflix. DuoLingo reports that Korean is the fastest growing language amongst users in France. While historically, media flows from the west to the east with little coming back, this is no longer the case.
Another megatrend we see is what WGSN calls Energized. In other words, as the world slowly crawls out of pandemic times, people are going to look for play and are embodying what TikTok users dub “The Main Character.” Being the protagonist means dressing colorfully and being an individual. The new guard don’t want to dress according to strict, “timeless” codes. They are exuberant and joyous—not the Parisian vibe.
Was She Ever Really Real?
In actuality, the Parisian aesthetic we know is categorically unfair and simply marketing. French fashion as whole has always been forward thinking. Think of André Courrèges and his space age designs of the 60s or Thierry Mugler and his otherworldly, racy designs in the 80s and 90s. Both of these houses have been resuscitated recently with new artistic direction from Nicolas di Felice and Casey Cadwallader respectively, and are proving to be successful.
Furthermore, there’s contemporary designers like Simon Porte Jacquemus, fashion’s golden boy, whose southern France-inspired designs are colorful and skin-bearing. Then there’s Marine Serre, whose looks are futuristic and apocalyptic. It’s a far cry from cable-knit cardigans and black bottines.
Marine Serre Spring 2022 via Vogue Runway Jacquemus Spring 2022 via Vogue Runway
So is it time to lay the Parisian Girl to rest? Does she still have a place in society where western cultural preeminence is questionable and people are looking to express their individuality? If you ask me, there is virtue in maintaining a style that is impervious to the rapid and wasteful trend cycle. As far as I’m concerned, you can pry my black blazers from my cold, dead hands!
Still, the world is changing and it’s time to say fare thee well to this tired cliché. May she rest in peace.
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